Tokaj-Hegyalja

Probably Hungary's best-known and most famous wine is named after the town of Tokaj in the north-east near the border with Slovakia and Ukraine. The word "Tokaj" is of Hunnic-Turkish origin and means "forest by the river". It was first mentioned in a chronicle at the end of the 11th century, where the crossing of a Cuman army over the River Tisza at "Thocoyd" is described. King Béla IV (1235-1270) established Hungarian viticulture on a larger scale, with the first upswing in the Tokaj region occurring in the 13th and 14th centuries. It is unclear when the first Tokaj Aszú was produced, but it is certainly one of the first wines to be made from botrytised noble sweet berries. The Tokaj region was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002.

The picture shows the vineyards of Tokaj in the second half of the 16th century. The fortress known as Rákóczi Castle was demolished in 1705 by order of Francis II Rákóczi (1676-1735).

History of Tokaj

There are numerous legends about the "invention" of Tokay. It is said that a Tokaji Aszú was presented to Pope Pius IV (1499-1565) at the Council of Trent in 1562, whereupon he remarked: "Summum pontificem talia vina decent!" ("Such wine belongs on the papal table"). The first documentary reference to it was in a document from the inventory of the Garay family dated 15 May 1571. The term "Vinum passum-aszu szeőleő bor" (wine made from aszú berries) appeared as early as 1590 in the posthumously published work "Nomenclatura" by Balázs Szikszay Babius (+1576). And in 1635, a list of the Rákóczi cellar mentions "7 barrels (the Gönc barrel was the standard size) and 2 Àntalag (= small barrel) Aszúszőlő-Bor" (= Aszú grape wine). The estates of Prince György Rákóczi I (1600-1660) also included the Tokaj-Hegyalja region.

Birth in 1651

When one of the numerous Turkish raids threatened once again around 1631, the court preacher in charge, Máté Szepsi-Laczkó (1576-1633), decided to wait with the grape harvest until the danger had passed. During the long and sunny autumn, the berries began to shrivel and noble rot set in. The winegrowers were instructed to press the grapes from the Oremus vineyard separately during the harvest.

At Easter 1651, the first "Tokajer Ausbruch"(dry berry selection) was served to Princess Zsuzsanna Lorántffy. The Hungarians therefore still honour Szepsi-Laczkó today as the "inventor of Aszú". A national evaluation for the Hungarian wine regions dates back to 1707. The regions were divided into five categories or quality classes. Only the Tokaj-Hegyalja region was classified as first class. It was at this time that the great importance of the area as a valuable commercial product began to be recognised.

Famous connoisseurs

From the 17th century onwards, Tokaj played an important role in many royal courts. Lovers included Franz Joseph I., Many famous writers and composers mentioned Tokay in their works, including Ludwig van Beethoven, Johann W. von Goethe (Faust), Heinrich Heine (Buch der Lieder), Friedrich von Schiller (Wallenstein), Franz Schubert, Bram Stoker (Dracula), Johann Strauss Sohn (Fledermaus), Theodor Körner (Weinlied), Nikolaus Lenau (Mischka an der Theiß) and Voltaire (Gottesbeweis).

In 1733, the Russian Tsar's court in Tokaj set up its own wine purchasing commission. Tsarina Elisabeth Petrovna Romanova (1709-1762) ordered a delivery of 375 barrels by letter on 8 November 1745 and remarked: "And if there is even a possibility, send at least three antal (barrels of approx. 75 litres) by messenger, which I cannot get anywhere here, when I cannot be without wine, as you also know" .

Vinum Regum - Rex Vinorum

Under Catherine the Great (1729-1796), supplies were escorted to her residence in St Petersburg by a detachment of Cossacks. The French Sun King Louis XIV (1638-1715) awarded it the title "Vinum Regum - Rex Vinorum", meaning "Wine of Kings - King of Wines". Tokay was also used as a diplomatic weapon. When the Turks were driven out of Budapest in 1686, Prince Ferenc Rákóczi II (1676-1735) wanted to establish the now liberated Hungary as an independent kingdom. In order to ally himself with Louis XIV, he sent him a noble Tokay. Emperor Franz-Joseph I (1830-1916) also used the wine for diplomatic purposes, greeting Queen Victoria (1819-1901) with a consignment of Aszú every year on her birthday.

The heyday

The heyday of the Tokaj wine trade was during the heyday of the ruling Rákóczi and Bercsényi families in the 17th and 18th centuries. During this period, most of the countless wine cellars (185 in Tokaj alone) were dug into the loess soil, which was ideally suited for this purpose. Towards the end of the 18th century, there was a decline due to war, which left the vineyards uncultivated or destroyed, as well as due to economic measures, especially during the reign of Maria Theresa (1717-1780). Only as much Tokaj wine was allowed to be exported as Austrian wine was imported. In 1745, the ruler of the Russian Tsarina Elisabeth (1709-1762) sent 600 bottles. Pope Benedict XIV (1675-1758) also received a consignment and thanked him with an extraordinary quotation.

Forgeries

In the 19th century, there was a great deal of wine adulteration, which contributed to Tokay's bad reputation. There were even detailed recipes, for example in a work from 1875: Take 100 litres of normal wine; 15 litres of sultana essence; 0.5 litres of bitter almond essence; 0.1 litres of elderflower essence; 4 kg of sugar; 0.5 kg of caramel; 4 kg of glitterin and 6 litres of 80 per cent alcohol. Such wine could be ordered by the wagonful from a wine merchant in Vienna-Döbling at a ridiculously low price. During the communist period of government after the Second World War, the Tokaj culture suffered a total decline. Almost all the larger wineries were nationalised. Tokay was produced cheaply and as a mass-produced wine. From the beginning of the 1990s, there was a new beginning and Tokaj experienced a rebirth.

Tokaj region

The defined boundaries for the right of designation of origin in Hungary have changed several times over the centuries. The oldest documented demarcation dates back to 1641, when 12 municipalities belonged to the narrower Tokaj region. Today's Tokaj wine-growing region was defined by the Hungarian Wine Act in 1997 and also registered in the Treaty of Lisbon. The triangle-shaped region, which is around 60 kilometres long and 30 kilometres wide, is located in north-eastern Hungary on the border with Slovakia and Ukraine and comprises the four towns of Sárospatak, Sátoraljaújhely, Szerencs and Tokaj, as well as 23 smaller municipalities.

Slovakia

However, there is also a Tokaj-like wine outside of Hungary. An area in Slovakia that borders directly on the Hungarian Tokaj-Hegyalja region has a special status. Here, a Tokaj-style wine is produced in the municipalities of Kistoronya, Szõlõske and the Slovakian part of the municipality of Sátoraljaújhely. Slovakia invoked the wine law from 1908, when this area still belonged to Hungary. After years of dispute, the two countries agreed in 2003 that the wines produced within the 565-hectare area could bear the Slovakian designation of origin "Tokajský". An expansion to almost 1,000 hectares is planned.

The picture on the left shows vineyards in Tokaji-Hegyalja; the picture on the right shows some of the many wine cellars near Abaújszánttó.

Hungary

The eponymous town of Tokaj lies at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers near Kopaszhegy (Kahlberg at 512 metres). The area is bordered by the three rivers Hernád, Bodrog and Tisza. These influence the humid climate, which favours botrytis (Hungarian: nemespenész). A cool and dry spring is followed by a hot summer and then an initially wet, later dry and long sunny autumn. The vineyards cover around 5,700 hectares. Only wines made from the Furmint (60%), Hárslevelű (25%), Muscat Lunel/Sárga Muskotály (Muscat Blanc), Kabar, Kövérszőlő(Grasă de Cotnari) and Zéta varieties are allowed to carry the "Tokaji" label. Wines from other varieties such as Chardonnay may only bear the geographical indication "Zempléni g.g.A."(country wine) on the label. The best single vineyard sites are mainly found in the municipalities of Bodrogkeresztúr, Mád, Rátka, Tarcal, Tállya, Tokaj and Tolcsva.

Winegrowing regulations

The first surviving wine-growing regulation dates back to 1641, when a 48-point regulation was issued in the municipality of Mád. Under Prince Ferenc Rákóczi II (1676-1735), a detailed wine-growing regulation was issued in 1700. At that time, aszú production was probably simpler than it is today. A document from 1758 states: "After the aszú berries have been infused with must, they are stirred well together and the vat is not covered too tightly. After three to four days of fermentation, when the sweet juice of the berries has dissolved in the must, the mass is pressed out by hand and the wine is left to ferment."

Measures in 1904

In 1904, the "extraordinary regulations for the Tokaj wine region" were published, which included a geographical demarcation with a total of 33 localities, the mandatory requirement for the use of oak barrels and the absolute ban on mixing Tokaj wines with wines from other regions. Furthermore, only those wines whose vines came from "mountainous vineyards" (i.e. on slopes) could be labelled as Tokaj. The wine law from 1997 declares Tokaj-Hegyalja to be the only "closed" wine-growing region in Hungary. Within this area, this means special protection and special regulations regarding the vinification, treatment and distribution of Tokaj.

Grape varieties have been cultivated and wines produced all over the world under the name Tokaj, Tokayer or similar. In Friuli-Venezia Giulia in Italy, there was the Tocai Friulano (Sauvignonasse) variety and in Alsace in France there was a Tokay d'Alsace as a name for Pinot Gris. Overseas, not only Tokay but also other wine-growing regions such as Bordeaux have always been misused. All these names had to be changed from 2007 onwards following a decision by the EU and international agreements. The origin-protected name Tokaj may only be used for the Hungarian and Slovakian originals.

The picture shows terraced vineyards near Tokaj on the River Tisza in north-east Hungary in Borsod-Abaúj-Zemplé county. The town of Tokaji is the centre of the Hungarian part of the Tokaj wine region.

The Tokaji wine types & production

A revised product specification came into force in 2017 (although further changes are expected). None of the wines may be bottled outside the wine-growing region. The addition of grape must for sweetening purposes is prohibited. For the Tokaj specialities Aszú, Eszencia, Szamorodni, Fordítás and Máslás, alcohol increase and acid changes (deacidification or acidification) are prohibited. In addition to sparkling wine, the following types of wine may be produced:

• Aszú
• Aszú-Eszencia (was eliminated in 2013)
• Eszencia
• Szamorodni (dry and sweet)
• Fordítás
• Máslás
• Késői Szűret (late harvest)
• White wine

Aszú (Tokaji Aszú in Hungarian, Tokajský Výber in Slovenian)

Aszú or Tokaji Aszú is the classic Tokaji wine. It is made from overripe, botrytis-infested berries that are selected individually by hand. The term is derived from aszalt (dried or parched). In principle, Aszú corresponds to a Trockenbeerenauslese. According to the traditional method, the berries are collected in 25kg puttonyos (butts). The grapes are pressed into a dough-like pulp using a basket press (rarely even today with the feet), whereby the grape seeds (which contain a lot of tannins ) must not be crushed.

At the same time, a must is obtained from non-botrytised grapes, which is added to the paste either unfermented, in fermentation or as a fermented base wine. The grape seeds floating on top are removed. The mixture is left to macerate for 18 to 48 hours while stirring and the sugar is released from the grapes. Fermentation begins after pressing. The pressed pulp is used for Fordítás (pomace wine).

Production of Aszú

In the past, the usual measure for the base wine or grape must was a Göncer barrel (136 to 145 litres) or Szerednyeer barrel (200 to 220 litres). The higher the number of puttonyos/butts, the sweeter and more concentrated the wine. The prescribed ageing period was "number of puttonyos plus 2", i.e. 8 years for a 6-butt puttonyos. In the old days, one to five-butt Tokaj Aszús were produced, later reduced to two to five-butt ones. Around 1790, the six-butt Aszú was created and the two-butt Aszú was discontinued, because good Szamorodnis were very close in quality to it. The two-butts were still produced until the second half of the 20th century. From 1997, only three- to six-butt wines with a residual sugar content of at least 60, 90, 120 and 150 g/l were produced.

There have been fundamental changes since the 2013 vintage. The designation "Tokaji Aszú" is now only permitted for 5 or 6 puttonyos. The base wine must come from the same vintage as the aszú berries, meaning that the wines are 100% true to the vintage. No more wine or must quantities are prescribed (like the Göncer barrel used to be). Instead of wine (which gives more body and alcohol), grape must or grape must already in fermentation (which gives more fruitiness and flavour) may also be used.

The wine must mature for at least 18 months in traditional large wooden barrels or barriques and may not be marketed before the 2nd year after the harvest. Due to this long storage period in the air-permeable wooden barrels, most wines can be described as slightly oxidised. The specified values for a Tokaj Aszú:

• at least 19% potential alcohol content
• at least 120 g/l residual sugar for 5 puttonyos or 150 g/l for 6 puttonyos
• at least 9% actual alcohol content (stated on the label)
• at least 6 g/l total acids
• maximum 2.1 g/l volatile acidity

The earlier variants "Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos" and "Tokaji Aszú 4 Puttonyos" may no longer be labelled as "Aszú" or "Tokaji Aszú". A wine with at least 45 g/l residual sugar can be labelled as Késői Szüret (late harvest) or as Szamordni édes (sweet). The number of puttonyos can be stated on the bottle label for all of them.

Eszencia

The free-run must obtained without prior pressing, using only its own weight, is slowly fermented. This speciality, also known as nectar, was first mentioned in 1707. In the 19th century, it was referred to in German-language literature as "Tokayer Ausbruch Essenz". In the past, eszencia was not considered a wine at all, but rather a medicine. In most cases, the eszencia was also "returned" to the aszú (if this was not done, it was referred to as a "castrated aszú"). This is still practised by most wineries today.

Although the fermentation for Eszencia often lasts several years, the minimum alcohol content of 5% required by the EU is rarely achieved. However, Hungary has obtained an exemption for this speciality. The actual alcohol content is usually very low and lies between 1% and 8% by volume. The wines must have at least 27.75% potential alcohol content and at least 450 g/l residual sugar. The dark-coloured wine has a honey-like consistency. This precious rarity is often only served by the glass in the wineries.

Aszú-Eszencia

This quality level was only created in the 20th century. The intention was to create an additional level between the 6-bottle Aszú and Eszencia. In the 1977 wine law, it is defined as "outstanding Aszú wine from a first-class vineyard and an excellent vintage". At least the same conditions applied as for Aszú. The botrytised berries had to have a sugar content of at least 180 g/l. However, the name often led to confusion with Escenzia. The variety was therefore eliminated from the 2013 vintage onwards.

Szamorodni

The name "Szamorodni", first mentioned in 1828, means "as grown". Unlike Aszú, there is no selection of the most suitable berries; instead, all the grapes are harvested and processed. Polish traders had learnt to appreciate the wine known at the time as "Főbor" (meaning "main wine") and spread the new name when marketing it. However, there should be a proportion of noble rotten berries, on which the quality and sweetness depends. The wines can therefore be vinified dry (száraz) or sweet (édes). They must mature for at least 6 months in wooden barrels. Some producers age them oxidatively.

Fordítás

This means "turn" in German. The pressed aszú dough is "turned" (stirred) and then infused with grape must, fermenting grape must or wine from the same vintage that is still fermenting and fermented. This is a marc wine. The wine must mature for 6 months in wooden barrels.

Máslás

This wine has been known since the middle of the 16th century. Like Szamorodni, the Polish-influenced name is derived from "Mászló" (butter) because the wine has a buttery flavour. It is a pressed yeast wine. The lees (full lees) of Aszúwein or Szamorodni is infused with must, fermenting must or fermenting wine from the same vintage. The wine must mature for 6 months in wooden barrels.

Tokaj producers

Well-known producers of Tokaj include Árvay, Balassa, Barta, Béres, Bodrog-Várhegy, Carpinus, Demeter Zoltán, Dereszla, Disznókő, Dobogó, Erzsébet, Füleky, Gizella, Grand Tokaj, Gróf Degenfeld, Hétszőlő, Höldvölgy, Juliet Victor, Kikelet, Kardos, Lenkey, Mád Wine, Megyer, Pajzos, Pelle, Pendits, Samuel Tinon, Kikelet, Tokaj Nobilis and Zsirai. The "Tokaj Renaissance" association, founded in 1995, is dedicated to the cultivation and culture of wine.

Ode to Tokaj

There is a saying on the label of one of these producers that aptly describes the fascination of this wine: Aki e üvegböliszik annak kivantatik, hogy a Borok Kiralyanak aranyfenye emlekeztesse a hegyaljai tajra, ahol immar ezredik eve ragyog a szölöt ökere a Nap! Kivantatik, hogy a Kiralyok Boranak, legendas gyogyhatasa kedves egeszsegere valjek).

"Whoever drinks from this bottle, may the golden lustre of the king of wines remind him of the landscape of Hegyalja, where the sun has been shining on the vines for a thousand years. May the legendary healing effect of the wine of kings be transferred to his health".

Further information

For the production of alcoholic beverages, see Champagne (sparkling wines), Distillation (distillates), Speciality wines, Spirits (types), Winemaking (wines and wine types) and Wine law (wine law issues).

Source: Kristian Kielmayer
Tokay region: By Georg Hoefnagel - Own scan, Public domain, Link
Vineyards Tokaji-Hegyalja: by Unknown, CC BY-SA 2.5, Link
Wine cellar: By Verita - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
Vineyard terraces: by MyName(Verita) - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
Barrel cellar: Tokaj Classic
Grapes: by CrazyD - Self-photographed, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
Eszencia: by Eszencia.jpg, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
Tokaj coat of arms: by Madboy74, Public domain, Link