2022 Assmannshausen Höllenberg Spätburgunder VDP.Grosses Gewächs trocken Versteigerungswein, Rheingau, Germany

Deep, complex and rather cool, somewhat root-vegetable-like, reminiscent of beetroot and a hint of meaty nose with relatively dark berry tones, lichen, mushrooms, hinted lavender and some tobacco-ashy and roasted barrel notes. Firmly structured, rather austere dark fruit with cranberries, coffee notes and slightly raisiny tones, crumbly-sandy, a touch drying tannin, tobacco aromas, bittersweet chocolate and cassis on the palate, persistent, quite dense, still completely undeveloped, much minerality, excellent substance and depth, very good, firm, concentrated finish with grip, black berries and smoky-roasted spice. Needs to mature.

Best to drink: 2027-2038+. What our ratings mean