2022 Riesling trocken "Monte Vacano", Rheingau, Germany

Firm, cool and deep, dense and very complex, light citrus scent with peach notes, fresh planty and herbaceous flavours reminiscent of sage, a hint of smoke and a lot of tart minerality, a little hazelnut and light tobacco. Cool, almost cold, juicy, concentrated, bright fruit, lively acidity and plenty of grip, persistent on the palate, herbal spice reminiscent of sage again, enormous, tart, stony minerality, very slightly sweetish mellowness, but also plenty of tension, deep and multi-layered, well-defined, a hint of dark berries in the background, still slightly smoky and yeasty, elegant style, yet full of energy, very long, firm, beguilingly pure, juicy, slightly yeasty, smoky and herbal and again enormously mineral finish. Note: the author is a close friend of the winery owners and was involved in compiling the final cuvée.

Best to drink: 2027-2040+. What our ratings mean