2003 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Goldkapsel 316°, Rheingau, Germany

Stunning, abysmal and bewilderingly complex nose of iodine, candied yellow and black fruits, dried fruits, Swiss herbal sugar, minerals, dried flowers, sage, dark caramel, dark chocolate and toffee. It seems pointless to try to describe this olfactory madness. I don't know of anything more concentrated, dense than this completely out of scale masterpiece. The purity almost drives you mad with this concentration, the complexity knows no rival. The term Trockenbeerenauslese is technically fine, but the wine explodes even that category. It will probably be the benchmark for noble sweet wine for generations. Nevertheless, not everyone will like it, the aromas are too unusual, too unique. A completely unique wine in the truest sense of the word, which I can no longer really grasp even with the possibilities of my rating system. I don't expect to ever experience anything greater in wine. Originally, I wrote down 101 points. For purely technical reasons, I had to revise that. Still, if I could, I would!

Best to drink: Wird Jahrhunderte reifen können. What our ratings mean