2021 Westhofen Sylvaner trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany

Cool, restrained and very bright nose with fine, restrained, still rather citrus-accentuated yellow-fruity notes, mussel shells and delicate vegetal tones reminiscent of celery. Cool and bright on the palate too, tightly knit, polished, rather slender fruit, very fine, lively acidity, nutty, delicately mushroomy and smoky notes, delicate grip, a hint of mushrooms in the background, hints of barrel, elegant style, persistent, has tension, light, chalky-salty minerality, again also mussels, gains depth and substance with air, elegant and polished on the finish too, yet gripping and with some persistence.

Best to drink: Mitte 2024 bis 2030+. What our ratings mean