2021 Westhofen Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany

Firm, concentrated and deep, tart, delicately yeasty citrus-stone fruit scent with fine herbal aromas, some smoke, hints of pak choi and intense, partly light, partly dark minerality. Gripping, dense and emphatically tart in the mouth, cool, noble fruit with lively, very fine acidity and a lot of grip from the finest tannins, extremely persistent, deep and complex on the palate, smoky nuances, enormous, chalky-salty minerality, a hint of rock candy in the background, almost light-footed despite all concentration, peppery traces, again some pak choi, a hint of currants in the background, completely under tension, long, gripping finish with finest juice, minerality, herbs, pepper, delicate mustard spice and enormous pull. Stunning.

Best to drink: 2027-2040+. What our ratings mean