2019 Walporzheim Alte Lay Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs, Ahr, Germany

Firm, somewhat mushroomy, delicately dried-vegetable and also hinted at bacon aroma of red and black berries with notes of pepper, dried herbs, beetroot, aubergine, a touch of malt and tar. Tart, juicy, again quite firm fruit, smoky notes, bread spices and pepper, some acidity and fine sandy tannin, bacony and mushroomy nuances, lasting, certain depth, clear minerality, has something cool, very good, tight, fine-juicy, tart-spicy and again mineral finish with bite. Closes up with air at first, then shows what it can really do on the third day.

Best to drink: Mitte 2022 bis 2028+. What our ratings mean