2021 Klingenberg Schloßberg Regent trocken, Franconia/Franken, Germany

Clear, somewhat tobacco-coloured nose, predominantly dark berries with a hint of dried herbs and cedary nuances. Tart, juicy fruit with clear nutty flavours, cedary traces and hints of smoke, crumbly tannins, a slight bite, a little dark caramel in the background, a certain persistence, salty in the background, hints of Mediterranean herbs, good to very good finish with a hint of dark chocolate and pepper. The unpretentious, old-fashioned style in the best sense of the word is visibly good for this otherwise rather characterless variety.

Best to drink: Bis 2027+. What our ratings mean