2023 Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling VDP.Grosses Gewächs trocken "Wurzelecht", Rheinhessen, Germany

Even more restless, denser, deeper and more complex, yeasty and herbal, also somewhat smoky-reductive citrus scent with stone fruit aromas, a bit of pak choi, mustard seed, citrus zest, a bit of pepper and distinct minerality. Firm, bitter, initially citrus-dominated fruit with blackberry notes, then increasingly fine stone fruit, present acidity and herbs, smoky and yeasty aromas on the palate, a bit of grip, in the background again citrus zest, persistent and concentrated on the palate, enormous, partly bright, partly dark minerality, initially feels downright cold, but also has something like fire, then lobster stock, plenty of tension, deep and complex, now completely unattainable, firm, gripping finish.

Best to drink: 2028-2040+. What our ratings mean