2020 Oberbergen Bassgeige Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs "Steinriese", Baden, Germany

Deep and complex, somewhat smoky-roasty aroma of ripe red and black berries with a little tobacco notes, meat, hints of juniper, black olives and Mediterranean herbs. Taut, almost cool, tart, rather juicy and yet also austere in a way, reminiscent of sloes, noble fruit with taut tannins, a little smoke and toast, mushrooms and black olives again, very dense and persistent on the palate, pithy, still rather off-putting, also drying, herbal nuances, a little pepper and a lot of salt, bacony hints, quite complex, but most of it still seems to be hidden in its dark, firm core, very good to long, taut, tangy finish with pull and grip. Needs to mature and show whether it can muster the subtleties and complexity for great consecrations.

Best to drink: 2026-2038+. What our ratings mean