Canary islands

The autonomous region of the Canary Islands (Spanish: Islas Canarias) is part of Spain and is located in the Atlantic Ocean off the north-west coast of Africa, close to Morocco. It consists of eight inhabited and a number of uninhabited islands and covers 7,447 km². The distance to mainland Spain is 1,100 km, but the easternmost island of Lanzarote is only 100 km from Africa. The Portuguese archipelago of Madeira lies 550 km to the north. The Canary Islands extend 212 km from north to south and 340 km from west to east. There are two provinces, each with a capital:

• Santa Cruz de Tenerife with La Gomera, La Palma, El Hierro and Tenerife (capital is Santa Cruz de Tenerife)
• Las Palmas with Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote (capital is Las Palmas de Gran Canaria)

History

When the Romans landed on the island of Fuerteventura in ancient times, they found numerous packs of wild dogs, which is why they called the island "Insula Canaria" (Dog Island). In 1402, a Spanish ship landed on Gran Canaria and found the indigenous Guanche people there, who were still living as they had in the Stone Age. The Spaniards and Portuguese brought their native grape varieties with them until the end of the century and established viticulture.

At that time, sweet, high-alcohol wines made from Moscatel and Malvasia were popular. They were known as "Canary sack" and were exported in large quantities to England and Europe. At the time of William Shakespeare (1564-1616), the island wine was already famous; in "What you will", Sir Toby Belch asks for "a cup of canary".

Climate & soils

These are volcanic islands. For this reason, the soil is volcanic and ideally suited to viticulture. The most recent eruption from September 2021 on La Palma caused severe damage due to the destruction of vineyards. The subtropical climate, which is pleasant all year round, has earned the archipelago the nickname "Islands of Eternal Spring". The flora is characterised by a high level of biodiversity and a high proportion of indigenous plant species. The vineyards cover around 9,000 hectares of vines. A special feature are the exclusively ungrafted vines, as the archipelago was largely spared from phylloxera.

Vineyards & grape varieties

Vines are grown on all seven main islands. The vineyards cover a total of 11,000 hectares. The most important red wine variety is Almuñeco (Listán Negro) with over 4,500 hectares. Others are Baboso Negro (Alfrocheiro), Cabernet Sauvignon, Castellana Negra (Rufete), Moscatel Negro (Listán Prieto), Negramoll, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo, Tintilla (Trousseau Noir) and Vijariego Negro (Sumoll).

The most important white wine variety is Listán Blanco (Palomino), others are Albillo Criollo, Baboso Blanco (Cayetana Blanca), Burra Blanca (Airén), Forastera Blanca (Chelva), Gual (Malvasia Fina), Malvasía de la Palma (Malvasia di Lipari), Malvasía de Lanzarote, Marmajuelo, Moscatel (Muscat Blanc), Pedro Ximénez, Verdello and Vijariego.

Wine-growing areas

There are ten DO areas and one VCIG area (quality wines). These are (DO name - island):

• Abona - Tenerife (DO)
• El Hierro - El Hierro (DO)
• Gran Canaria - Gran Canaria (DO)
• Islas Canarias - entire region (VC)
• La Gomera - La Gomera (DO)
• La Palma - La Palma (DO)
• Lanzarote - Lanzarote (DO)
• Tacoronte-Alentejo - Tenerife (DO)
• Valle de Güímar - Tenerife (DO)
• Valle de la Orotava - Tenerife (DO)
• Ycoden-Daute-Isora - Tenerife (DO)

El Hierro

The Englishman John Hill planted vines here for the first time in 1626. The terraced vineyards of the 300-hectare DO area reach up to 700 metres above sea level. It is best known for its white wines from Vijariego Blanco. These make up around 70% of production and are also produced from the other Canarian varieties. The red wines are mainly made from Listán Negro and Negramoll. The best sweet wines are made from noble rot grapes.

Gran Canaria

The DO area covers around 450 hectares of vineyards up to 850 metres above sea level (the former second DO area Monte Lentiscal has been integrated). The vineyards are located around the capital Las Palmas and in the north-east of the island. The best-known wine, which also established the DO status, is "Tinto del Monte" (mountain wine) made from the Listán Negro variety.

La Gomera

The second smallest island at 370 km². The DO area of the same name covers around 100 hectares of vineyards on steeply terraced slopes, which are fortified with stone walls.

Lanzarote

In 1730, there was a volcanic eruption that lasted six years and covered the entire island with a layer of lapilli (small stones) and black ash. The DO area, which covers the entire island, comprises around 2,300 hectares of vineyards in the five municipalities of Haría, San Bartolomé, Teguise, Tinajo and Yaiza. It is divided into four subzones: La Geria in the south, San Bartolomé-Tías in the centre, Tinajo in the west and Haría-Yaiza in the north.

The climate is extremely dry. The vines are planted in artificially created hollows (hoyos) up to three metres deep and surrounded by semi-circular stone walls made from basaltic lava blocks to protect them from the north-east trade winds and drying out (see pictures below). One speciality is fortified, high-alcohol sweet wines. The best wines are made from vines that are up to a hundred years old. The "El Grifo" bodega, founded in 1775, runs a wine museum that is well worth a visit and is famous for its Malvasia wines.

La Palma

This is also known as "La Isla Bonita" (the beautiful island). The DO area with over 1,000 hectares consists of the three subzones Fuencaliente-Las Manchas, Hoyo de Mazo and Norte del Palma. 80% of the white wines are made from the classic varieties. Some of the sweet wines are fortified. One speciality is the white wine "Vino de Tea" from Albillo. It is named after a local type of pine from which the 500-litre barrels are made.

Tenerife

The largest of the Canary Islands at just under 2,000 km². There are five DO areas here. The southern DO area of Abona covers 2,200 hectares at up to 1,800 metres above sea level. The Tacoronte-Acentejo DO area on the west coast covers 1,800 hectares and is named after the towns of Tacoronte and La Victoria de Acentejo. Ycoden-Daute-Isora, the DO area with the hottest climate, covers the entire green north-west of the island. It is named after the ancient Guanche kingdoms of Ycode and Daute, as well as the kingdom of Princess Isora.

The steep vineyards at up to 1,400 metres above sea level cover 1,600 hectares. Garachico developed into the main export harbour for the famous "Canary Sack". The DO area Valle de Güímar covers 750 hectares and is named after the valley of the same name. The vineyards here lie at up to 1,400 metres above sea level. The DO area Valle de la Orotava covers 700 hectares and is named after the town of Orotava on the north-west coast.

Producers

Well-known producers on the Canary Islands include Bodega Comarcal Valle de Güimar, Bodegas El Grifo, Bodega El Lomo, Bodega El Níspero and Bodegas Flores, Bodegas Insulares Tenerife, Bodega Llanovid, Bodegas Monje, Bodegas Mozaga, Bodegas Reverón, Bodega Tajinaste, Bodega Tomás Guzmán Mesa Rodríguez, Bodega Viña Chagua, Bodegas Viñátigo, Coop. Cumbres de Abona and Juan Jesús Méndez Siverio.

Map: Bernd Ramm Goruma
Lanzarote vineyards: © Dr Peter Bezold