2013 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs trocken, Rheingau, Germany

Firm, quite clearly fine-vegetable citrus nose with peach notes, some herbs and distinct minerality. Taut, cool, juicy fruit, again clearly vegetal flavours, behind it yeasty-nutty tones and a hint of smoke, grip of crumbly tannin, present acidity that provides plenty of tension and backbone, delicate sweetness in the background, enormous minerality, good depth and substance, floral traces, with air a hint of beeswax and a little more sweetness, very good to long, juicy and gripping finish.

Best to drink: Bis 2030+. What our ratings mean