2017 Malterdingen Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein Alte Reben, Baden, Germany

Firm and deep, still slightly reductive, emphatically yeasty fragrance with light yellow-fruity and delicate vegetal aromas, a little smoke and roasting, floral traces and a lot of light minerals. Firm, rather cool, fresh and tart and juicy in the mouth, lots of yeast, fresh vegetable aromas, some smoke and intense chalky-salty minerality, present, lively acidity, persistent and grippy on the palate, good depth, barely developed, plenty of grip, has tension, very good, tart, juicy, spicy and again very mineral finish. First class.

Best to drink: 2021-2028+. What our ratings mean